2 MONCLER 1952 (Woman) | The refined power of femininity
Veronica Leoni interpreted the outerwear and outdoors attitude of Moncler with a lusciously feminine instinct, devising a collection that merges the utilitarian with the languid to create something both empowering and elegant. The world of genderless tailoring employs wools, devoré velvets, nylon twill, off-center diamond quilting and knit resulting in pieces that provide the opportunity for extreme layering of textures, a distinct complexity and three-dimensionality. “Imagining an army of women on a quest for a lost paradise, I looked at the exoticism of the beginning of the XX century and interpreted it in a modern, intensely functional way. It’s all about femininity and elegance, with a twistedly practical angle. I am particularly proud of the collaboration with gender equality group Girl Up on a special item with the slogan: IT’S HER RIGHT”.
Editor Andrew Kim talks with 2 MONCLER 1952 womenswear designer Veronica Leoni about the 2020 Fall/Winter collection, her past experiences at renowned ateliers, as well as sustainability, and more.
Q. In total there were 8 collections & 3 collaborations on show in the night of Moncler’s Genius Fall 2020 event. According to our editor-in-chief, Raymond Chae, the cumulative experience felt much like being at a large amusement park. As a designer, how did you feel being part of such a major project and what exclusive details did you try to bring to add uniqueness to your own collection?
The Moncler Genius event itself is something so special and BIG that the only way you’ve got to come out of it, is staying into your own bubble, focused and concentrated, until the very last minute and enjoy just the finale out there! The uniqueness is guaranteed by each designer personality and original inspiration.
Q. When I think of Milan’s iconic fashion house, Moncler, the first thing that comes to mind is outerwear and functionality. What was your inspiration behind the collection and how did you intertwine your thoughts to the design whilst maintaining Moncler’s attitude and identity?
Moncler DNA is always my strongest inspiration. It’s my main ingredient and where all the creativity needs to eventually converge. I started the season envisioning an army of women on a quest for their lost paradise. Strong women who do not renounce to their freedom, able to indulge in femininity and at the same time contaminating it in a modern, active and functional way. Great inspiration came from the exoticism of the beginning of the XX century and from many of the iconic women of the time. I wanted to set Moncler into a decadent imagery merging the utilitarian with the languid, the functional with the decorative, to create something both empowering and elegant but still authentic to the most recognizable Moncler archetype.
Q. Having showcased several collections at Moncler now, how do you think your experiences at renowned ateliers of Jil Sander and Céline helped you develop a more modern yet sophisticated approach to clothing?
I always tried to stay eclectic and open minded. I like to think that my creativity and my “method” is the result of the many different inputs and experiences which shaped my sensibility along my career. I like the idea of proceeding with a sort of additive process retaining and transforming through my lens what I consider to be the best of.
Q. Creating appealing silhouettes and incorporating delicate prints that women want to wear are certainly great assets of yours. Would you say this also comes from your involvement in prêt-á-porter collections and familiarity with traditional tailoring?
Of course, yes! As I said, I didn’t abandon my experiences when I started Moncler. It’s rather the way to make it mine, to make it more personal and closer to my vision. Contamination is the main feature of my 1952 and it’s the most exciting challenge!
Q. Another thing that caught my eye from the Fall collection was your collaboration with gender equality group Girls Up. What was your purpose behind working with the foundation and what message did you intend to portray through the slogan “It’s her right?”
I knew Girl Up and the amazing work they were doing since almost a decade. I wanted the Genius project and Moncler to be part of it and Mr Ruffini welcomed my proposal with great excitement! I loved the idea to make of the Moncler Genius project not just a creative hub for different voices but an active platform challenging the status quo and promoting differences and gender equality. I really hope, as a woman, what we are feeling now is the wind of change and all of us, supporting and encouraging the new generations, we’ll be able to achieve results which should sound obvious but are far yet from our daily life. Guaranteeing the access to education is not just key to empower new generations of girls, it’s actually the first instrument to fight prejudice, violence and hate, and build up a better society where there won’t be no space for such a thing. This cannot be utopia anymore. We’ve all got the opportunity to be the change and I’m excited Moncler is an active part of it!
Q. On that note, what do you think of fashion’s ability, in general, to bring about change in society?
I’m sure fashion industry has responsibilities which goes far beyond clothes. Fashion is by definition the mirror of the evolving society, anticipating, proposing and supporting changes. Current period is so tough on so many levels and we – as a whole multilayered system – must set an example of values and behavior.
Q. Looking back at your journey, from dreaming of becoming a fashion designer to taking on the role as creative director of womenswear brand 2 Moncler 1952, what achievement/moment would you say is your favorite?
The time spent with such talented and unique women as Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo taught me so much and it is definitely essential in my path so far.
Q. Year 2020. A start of a new decade. What’s next for you? Any hints on what we can expect next?
I guess as everybody, I’m trying to react to the slow down we are going under. I’m working very hard to preserve the excitement, the quality and the level of creativity of my daily life on any level. The upcoming months will be cruel and fertile at the same time. I’ll try to be on the positive side!
Q. ‘FASSION’ originates from a combination of two words, ‘fashion,’ and ‘passion.’ What thought does the word ‘FASSION’ give to you?
It sounds like a very fascinating crasis. I feel there’s some intangible going on here which is what keep us so motivated in the industry and bonded to each other!
Videographer & Photographer : Sanghun Lee
Editor : Andrew Kim
Stylist : Raymond Chae
Hair Artist : Hyunjin Kang
Make-up Artist : Young Lee